I have been looking across the sand bank to a white beach for a couple of days now… Today I decided to forgo my morning snorkel and swim, and instead head into the beach with warm bread, Camembert, some coffee, yoga mat and a book.
On my way over I saw more rays … they are so cool! There are very few sharks here. I have a feeling they tend to be where people are… there are only 14 people who live here. The locals here call them, their dogs. In Fakarava, population of 800, sharks were everywhere.
It might be the most incredible water I’ve ever seen…
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…. This time to the atoll, Toau! To my surprise, the wind is delivering more knots than predicted so we raised the sail right away in Rotoava and sailed past two Super Yachts. One of their tenders is longer than my boat!
A tender … Somewhere in there is a helicopter…
We had beautiful wind and slight outgoing current pushing us through the pass without using the engine. I didn’t even have it running in neutral. Sarantium sailed straight as an arrow through the pass on a beam reach and continued this way all the way to the pass of Toau!
The incoming current was scheduled aprox 6 hours later so we had some time to kill outside the next atoll, Toau . The sail from Fakarava to Toau only took 2 hours at our speed of 5-6 knots. At the end we dropped part of the mainsail and rolled in the Genoa and let the staysail out… we needed to slow down to wait for slack tide! We slowed down and sailed back and forth outside the pass entrance to catch the slack. The entrance is really shallow and water rushes through there at an outgoing tide.
A pleasure boat, with a helicopter on the roof motored right towards us so I tacked away from it… and then it also changed direction. I decided to call them to see what their intended destination was; to continue past me or to go into the pass entrance. They answered and said they were heading into the pass. “Ok, I’ll tack back to original direction then as it’s too early for us to enter the pass with large standing waves” they answered “oh, is the tide going in or coming out right now?” 😳… this is when you know you got a big boat. How do you not know??? …tide was ebbing and current running MAX at 6 knots. I said “ looks like your boat can handle the standing waves, I’m waiting until slack, see you in there” ha! The captain laughed and said “have a great sail”I was amused to watch them go in and to see them slow right down as they too was affected by the strong current! An hour and a half later I set my engine to full speed and we surfed in on the large surf waves! That was fun!! I zigzagged in between corral heads and sand banks and finally anchored in 5 m off water! Another great day!!
As I’m nearing the end for this incredible year, I find myself reflecting on what I’ve experienced. Form people I’ve met to endless learning about the sea and new places. I’m feeling an immense gratification and I really have to pinch myself from time to time. What I only dreamt about a few years ago, I’m now breathing that energy. I’m seeing those deep colours. I’m feeling that zen…
The nightly skies…
The week went by quickly as I’m balancing the days with diving, walking, socializing and getting the boat ready for haul-out in Apataki Atoll. I’m going through nooks and crannies; tossing items I have not used and organizing valuable items for easy access. I’m also thinking forward to next year as my plan is to install a few items, such as a new water-maker and possibly more batteries. I have more than enough, however storing energy is so important.
Back to the fun….
This week, I spent most of my time in and under the water. I joined the local dive shop and did a couple of drift dives with tuna, grouper, nurse sharks and various reef sharks. The schools of various fish were incredible to watch and swim amongst. This dive may have been the most incredible dive I’ve ever experienced. Unfortunately, all my underwater videos are downloaded on my computer and this platform doesn’t let me download videos here from my computer. But I do post them on insta and Facebook if you’re interested. Perhaps, I’m not savvvy enough upload them here.
One of the highlights this week has been meeting new people. I have had neighbours from Switzerland, the UK, Sweden and Turkey. In addition, yesterday’s full day of excursion to the south end, I met folks from France, Italy and Australia. Some are temporarily working here as healthcare workers, some on their honeymoon and some celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary!
Yesterday was fun!
Vic and Nick on Pink BeachNext years pig roast!This years roast!Cooking the bread between two leavesParrot fishCoconut buns in the makingOur guide baked..Taught us how to make hats From a stem of palm to a hat in 1.5 minutes…
Sailing back to the village on a beautiful north-east wind, while talking to fellow sailors!
The sailing vessel stick on a reef was freed yesterday with the help of two tow boats pulling and one smaller vessel pulling on the mast… the rudder lost and prop damaged.
The chain snapped off in the night during high winds because of one worn link… time to inspect my chain!