Sailaway Sarantium

I’m walking around in awe of French Polynesia. It’s so lush here, people are amazing… and then of course the mantas….

Amber who crewed with me from Victoria, BC to La Paz, Mexico went missing two days ago. Her boat ”Gypsy Soul” was found washed up onshore in Nanaimo. Amber remains missing. Evidence points to that she fell overboard. I’m heartbroken. During our passage, I could always trust and count on her. She was always ready to take on projects and discuss plans. An amazing young woman who will forever be in my ♥️

So, the check-in went smoothly! After declaration was filled out on line, they stamped my passport and off I went to pay the city a tax for staying in their waters!

We rented a car and drove around the island, bought another months worth of groceries, cleaned and organized the boat! We dropped off laundry yesterday that will be ready tomorrow hopefully! I also tootled around the anchorage to meet sailors from around the world! I found a bunch of Swedes, Norwegians, French and a Canadian/US sailors! The weather has been wet here! A ton of rain is expected in the north Marquises so many are heading to the islands south of here! We’re undecided what to do! I’m anxious to get out of this anchorage though as it’s rolly and water is brown from all the soil runoff!

From the time I spotted land, to when we anchored time stood still in some way. I just stared at the islands getting closer and closer. The green mountains began to have cliffs, trees and bushes. We sailed almost all the way in until the sun set around 20.00 and I decided to throw the engine in gear so the auto helm could steer us there and I could just sit and watch the moon, outline of coastline and lights from the town, Atuoana, come closer. I hailed the port captain but since it was evening, no answer. Instead another sailboat answered and let me know that they had just left their anchorage and if we wanted to brave going all the way into bay there was a spot. I said, ” I’m too tired and will throw the anchor in outside of breakwater”.. we had a bit of a chat and then it was time for us to do just that…. Throw the anchor in, after 28 days! It wasn’t long before the champagne appeared and celebrations started! Except, I’m tired so I am OUT! I completed leg 2 in my journey.

It is happening….

2700 nautical miles sailed and bobbed

0 accidental gybes

1 wing on wing points of sail, the rest beam/broad reach

16 hours of motoring

1 equator crossing

4 tanker/freighter encounters/ 0 sailboats

3 squalls

2 lightening storms seen from the distance

10 swims

2 shark encounters

100 plus dolphin encounters

7 dead flying fish on deck (thanks to netting)

1 flying fish in the head and 1 found under my pillow

6 overnight Boobie guests and 6 times cleaning the solar panels

1 coffeecup lost overboard

0 cellphones lost overboard

1 wee dram of rum

1 glass of red wine

1 birthday celebration

5 loaves of bread made

4 novels/10 New Yorker articles/4 podcasts

75 hours slept

…as I set up my bed in the pit and lay down I scan this giant ocean with its barreling down waves! Sarantium will never win any races but but she was built for this. When sails are balanced, small main and small Genoa, and she hits 6 knots, she then glides perfectly on top of the waves. With the long keel slicing through the waves, the boat doesn’t hesitate nor sway. It’s a good solid boat and tonight she’s happily flying east towards Hiva Oa at 7 knots! We have a full moon at stern and the view is spectacular. If this wind keeps up, I will throw the anchor in the water early evening, tomorrow!

I have two options for tomorrow when anchoring. The harbor in Hiva Oa or the island just 2 NMiles west of Hiva Oa. Technically, when arriving to a new country you check in right away if the port captain is open. They close daily at 11.30 so we won’t make check in tomorrow. Hiva Oa has had a lot of rain in the past few days and as a result a lot of run off. Water in the harbor is brown so many sailboats moved to the neighboring island. Part of me just want to get the check-in over with and finding a restaurant that serves meat and coconut drinks but part of me wants to stop at the smaller island and sit on the white sandy beach before going into a busy harbor.

I have a long list of little things that needs to be fixed. I have laundry. I need to grocery shop. The boat needs cleaning. The task-oriented part of me is saying ”get it done” and the tired side of me says go to the island, hang on the beach, swim with the mantas and open another can of food!

The wise choice would be to go to the island for a couple of nights and regain consciousness after 28 days off shore! I’m tired!

Out!

In 185 NMiles we should be… the nights are long and days seem short! Squalls are fewer and rain is less! Cushions and pillows are still being tossed down below every so often to avoid getting soaked. Although we still have food, the fresh fruit are gone and we only have potatoes and half a cabbage left. My plan is to whip up a lentil stew today! I’m hoping to be sitting in a restaurant tomorrow night, sipping on a drink 🍹, a real drink! Approximately 5000 nautical miles at sea from July of 2024, since leaving Nanaimo, BC, until now…is something to celebrate!!!

At 10.30: S08*32 W136*18

COG: 237*

Nautical miles left to go until anchorage: 175 nm.