The last 36 hours of the passage from the Cook Islands to Tonga were frustrating and exhausting. Gusty headwinds combined with the shallower sea floor created a short, choppy sea state that made for an uncomfortable ride. Between the rain, cooler temperatures, and the constant motion of the boat, sleep was hard to come by.

Seeing land on the horizon was a welcome sight. I ended up motor sailing for the final six hours, partly because a case of “get-there-itis” had set in, but also because I wanted to arrive before low tide. The customs dock isn’t exactly designed for cruising sailboats—it’s built for cargo ships and ferries—so I knew docking could be a challenge.

Once inside the harbour, it became obvious that my boat wasn’t going to fit alongside very well. I hailed Port Control to ask if there was another option. Their response was simple: “Wait for the big catamaran behind you.”



I turned around and, to my surprise (not), my Spanish friends aboard SV Catarsis had quietly caught up to me. I let the 55-foot catamaran pass, then rafted up alongside them. Customs and immigration processed both of our boats at the same time, and before long we were lowering our quarantine flags, raising the Tongan courtesy flags, and heading off to find mooring buoys.

On my way through the harbour, I passed the famous Hideaway Floating Bar, owned by a Canadian couple from Manitoba and Ontario. As soon as they spotted my Canadian flag, everyone erupted in cheers—a pretty special welcome to Tonga.

Just as I approached my mooring, my Aussie friend launched his dinghy and came out to help. He grabbed my mooring lines and made securing the boat quick and easy.
That night I slept a solid nine hours.
Since arriving, I’ve quickly settled into the cruising community. I’ve shared more than a few beers, caught up with sailors I first met two years ago, and made plenty of new friends along the way.
I’m moored just offshore from the Mango restaurant, which has become the unofficial gathering place for cruisers. They provide a dinghy dock along with laundry facilities, propane refills, and fuel service, making it an easy place to get chores done while catching up with fellow sailors. It already feels like one of those places where everyone eventually ends up.

And now it’s time for the local cuisine!

Five days, and a fly to Florence♥️
Once again it is so enjoyable to read your adventures. You always find your people. Gotta love it. Meanwhile back in Nanaimo….oh what can I say?
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